I am a Naturopath and part of that includes aromatherapy massage and another aspect of it is colonic hydrotherapy. In this country, colonics are now acceptable to talk about, even at the dinner table and an average cost for such a treatment is £70 and upwards. Aromatherapy massage can be had in many places from £25 up. Quite a big difference.

When I was in America for several months, obviously, I couldn’t do any colonics as the equipment is not portable but I was able to borrow a friend’s massage table and asked said friend for advice on what to charge. Start at $150 and negotiate down he said. The price was a shock, as was the idea of negotiating down. Apparently, it is common practice for clients to do that so the therapist always start higher and probably ends up at what their normal price would be. Incidentally, colonics were available for $30 and I never did understand why there was such a big discrepancy in the pricing structure. So, deciding to set my price at $130, I set about letting America know I was coming. Very soon, I had a waiting list and when I finally got there, I was turning over 6 to 8 sessions per day. There were a few differences I learned about though.

The Americans I was working on were attracted by what they perceived as “European Aromatherapy” using “English ‘erbs”. The reality is, that my base oils and essential oils come from all over the World and actually, precious little is from the UK.

The other expectation was that a treatment session should be 90 minutes – and that is all massage. Any consultation should not be taken from that time. I adapted my usual massage routine which was 45 minutes (to allow a client to change and be in and out within the hour) to accommodate the new timings and found it very pleasurable to work for longer.

The main thing that was commented on however was that the clients were all not very happy about me using vegetable oils to massage with. They loved the sound of the names; Comfrey, Mullein etc. and they very much wanted the essential oils as well but they didn’t like the feeling of greasiness with the massage. When I asked what they were normally used to, they all said that therapists there tended to use massage lotions. So of I toddle to the local beauty supply store to see what was available. I bought 4 different massage lotions and tried then out on my new clients. They were very happy. I was not.

The ingredients listings on the labels showed the horrors of the contents; Mineral oil, Liquid Paraffin, Silicones, Dimethicone, and an awful lot of water. The feel of the product was not particularly pleasant to work with and it took me a while to adjust but I just couldn’t reconcile the concept of a health / holistic treatment with that gunk in the bottle.

Massage lotions and creams are an emerging concept in the UK. They have been widely used in the USA and in Scandinavian countries for many years but are relatively not so usual in this country. On my last trip to America, I had a look at some of the leading brands and checked out the labels. From a therapy point of view, I can say that they were at best, poor quality, and at worst, positively hazardous. What a strange concept that a client should go to a massage therapist for a treatment that will improve their well being and health to be coated with a lotion that is made from paraffin wax and a well known carcinogen. You can’t always expect a client to know the ingredients, but as a health professional, you have a responsibility to your clients to be well informed and responsible.

So why did the Americans like their massage lotions so much?

Firstly, many clients are put off by the greasy feeling after an oil based massage so only have them on their days off so as not to ruin their office clothes. That limits your market right away. Many therapists only massage with 1 base oil like grapeseed. That is great for training purposes but a good quality blend should never have less than 3 oils and ideally should have 5. That way, you can include a full range of omega 3, 6 and 9 to the clients’ benefit.

On my return to the UK, I set about finding out how to improve matters. I did my research and further training and finally set up Skinbuddy and now teach 1 and 2 day courses at colleges around the country teaching Holistic Practitioners and therapy students how to make a wide range of their own creams, gels, shampoos and of course, massage lotions.

So what are the advantages of a massage lotion? Well perhaps it is easier to see what are the disadvantages of using oil alone?

Whilst most colleges teach their students a number of carrier oils the reality is they tend to use Sweet Almond oil or Grapeseed oil only. Mostly this is due to financial restraints and budgets that have to be adhered to but time and time again, I have seen contact dermatitis develop on therapists’ hands and they always seem to be the ones that are using a lot of Grapeseed oil.

When I was originally trained by one of the acknowledged leaders in the Aromatherapy field, Brenda Coverdale, we learned about 20 base oils as a starting point. Notice the difference in terminology there? Brenda teaches that the oils are carrier oils as they often carry the essential oils in dilution but I hear many students referring to carrier oils as if they were neutral and the only effects come from the essential oils that they carry. The important fact however, is that even without essential oils, the base oils are incredibly effective in a great number of ways. Containing numerous vitamins and minerals, they can help to address nutritional deficiencies in your client. The feel of them is very different on the skin and you can work holistically with the emotional aspects. Were you even aware that base oils had an emotional aspect? When working at a hospice, it is a superb way to connect with your client on a subtle level.

Many of the oils however, whilst being wonderful to hear about were in reality, not easy to use. Castor oil works wonderfully well on the bowel but is far too thick and sticky to use as a massage oil. Vitamin E oil is also very thick and sticky.

This is where massage lotions come into their own. You can formulate a range of massage lotions for all different skin types as well as a wide range of ailments. A variety of different emulsifiers are used as appropriate to the density of the oils but I regularly worked on my patients with a castor oil based cream. I was working in adult Oncology at the Middlesex Hospital in London. Castor oil has the wonderful ability stimulate peristalsis in the ascending colon. Bearing in mind that most of our society seems to be gravity fed when it comes to bowels and elimination (sorry, it’s the colon hydrotherapist side of me getting on a soapbox!) what a wonderful idea to have peristalsis in the ascending colon. Most of the patients I was working on were fairly sedentary due to being ill in hospital and the hospital food was not so appetising and certainly did nothing to encourage nutrition or elimination. Following reflexology treatments with the castor oil cream, many patients reported a greater sense of well being from having shifted their constipation.

That is another advantage of the massage lotions – you don’t always have to massage with them. I use them as foot creams as well as after sun lotions. Anywhere in fact, where you want an oil to hang around for a while and not sink in right away. Many beauty salons use my massage lotions formulae after clients have had their legs waxed. The combination of oils leaves the skin soft and nourished with a subtle sheen and a natural sun factor of 2. They use the same formula but packaged differently for hand massage and as part of a manicure routine. Another makes a light lotion for the clients to use after using sun beds. We added St John’s Wort to that blend to help repair the solar damage. I’m not a great fan of sun beds or spray tans, but people do want them and they do use them so let’s help them with some lotions as well.

Then there is the icing on the cake with the massage lotions. Traditional massage oils can only include fat soluble ingredients by definition. A massage lotion has a fat stage and a water stage when it is made. That water stage means that we can add water soluble ingredients that could never be used with base oils alone. Ingredients like Vitamin C which is now available as stabilised enough to work well in a lotion; allantoin from comfrey roots to assist in healing; aosaine which is a wonderful wrinkle fighter. The list goes on.

There are a number of ingredients available to you to make massage lotions leave the skin feeling superbly pliable, soft and conditioned and the effect lasts for several days. Ingredients like Bisabolol from Roman Chamomile, and Sea Silk are eco friendly and easy to use. The lotions are cheap enough to make that you can give your client the rest of the pot you used on them for use at home. It costs you a matter of pennies but people always like a freebie and it gives the treatment added benefit which gives you the edge over other therapists.

The very fragile oils that are usually high in Omega 3 are quite unstable on their own and are prone to rancidity in a few months as they oxidise. Include them into a massage lotion with some Vitamin E and suddenly they have a 2 year shelf life. Are you getting the idea now?

Also, your clients leave your table non sticky with superbly conditioned skin and that is always remembered even a few days later. Basically, if you are not offering your clients a cream or lotion alternative, you are going to be left behind.

To return to my American clients though, they were happy with not only inferior but in my opinion, harmful products because they didn’t like feeling oily or greasy after a massage. Everyone likes a free gift and you get the edge over other therapists. But following that, many clients want to buy the lotions to take home with them as well. Many clients want the lotions to use at home or after the gym. Not only does your reputation as a masseur get enhanced, but your sales are increased as well. Sounds like a win win situation to me.

Copyright Mike Harmon from Skinbuddy™ 2007

Mike Harmon is a Naturopath trained in Aromatherapy, Reflexology, Iridology, Massage and Colonic Hydrotherapy. He is also trained as a Master Cosmetologist.

A Consultancy Service is available to Spa and Salon owners wishing to have their own range formulated for them.

Regular courses are also available to learn how to make organic and eco friendly products that are of benefit to yourself and your clients.

For further details, please contact Mike Harmon on 020 7884 1175 or go to www.skinbuddy.com

copyright Skinbuddy™/Mike Harmon 2007

The buzzword last year was “spa” with everybody from L’Oreal to Woolworths touting their own spa range and pretty soon the word became devalued. The origins of the word are from the Latin Sana Per Aqua literally health through water and the Romans were avid users of spas and brought them to England. Bath was a superb example of Roman spa building. The ultimate degradation of the word came in the form of current billboard posters from a major detergent manufacturer offering a shower gel that gave a “spa experience”. Having myself had a fabulous spa experience in the Maldives that included reflexology, massage and sensory delights for the eyes, nose and ears, it seemed unlikely that a £1.20 bottle of body wash was going to replicate all those sensations and so the centuries of use of the word “spa” have now been trashed down to the level of a bottle synthetic jollop touted on a billboard.

So what is the next word to lose all value and integrity? Sorry to say that this year’s buzzword seems to be “natural” so be prepared to have your products challenged in the coming months. So just what IS natural?

It is clear that many consumers want nature based ingredients. The natural fragrance of essential oils characterizes many personal care brands and is rightly valued by consumers. The public attach great importance to the verifiable natural effect of plants like aloe vera, calendula or roses which have been proven in use for centuries. Unfortunately, the advertisers would have us believe that these effects work just as well in a washing powder as well as a vacuum cleaner fragrance insert.

Most people would agree that essential oil of Roman Chamomile is natural – but think again. It does not exist in Nature in that form. The anti inflammatory agent azulene does not exist in the plant until the plant has been processed and steam distilled. So is the oil natural? Some people have difficulties with the idea of processing per se. Comparing a single farmer in Grasse who grows lavender and harvests it himself, then distills it to a large company who harvest lavender on a huge scale and distill it as well. Truly, where is the difference? The single farmer will not be reaping the flowers heads with a scythe, he will be using a tractor or harvester which is petrol driven. Perhaps it is the image that has more to do with it. I do not claim to have the answers here but just wish to play Devil’s advocate to give you things to think about. For me, it is the ethos of the person or the company that is more important but possibly that is vulnerable to marketing hype as well.

It could also be argued that all chemicals are “natural”, because even synthetics are produced from raw materials that ultimately are derived from the wholesome goodness of Mother Earth herself. It cannot be said that just because something is natural that it is good for you. Botulinum bacteria exists naturally in the soil but when in the body gives a horrible way to die.

Some people refer to Cocamidopropyl Betaine detergent as “naturally derived”, meaning derived from natural sources, in this case, from Coconut Oil. Cocamidopropyl Betaine may be derived from coconut oil, but “derived from coconut oil” does not give me enough of a clue to know whether they spun it in a centrifuge or if it has been reacted 5 times with unpronounceable chemicals.

So, if a raw material is derived from natural gas, is that raw material “naturally derived” also? As a friend of mine says, “there is nothing more natural than a dead dinosaur”. Hmm, that makes for uncomfortable thoughts.

For many consumers, the concept of “natural” here may simply be that it’s the perceived value of something being freshly picked or as minimally handled afterwards as possible. For many, that perception is primarily fuelled by whether or not the ingredient name is pronounceable, which is then perceived as a mark of goodness seal. For that very reason, many small formulators have added information to their INCI declarations on the product labels. Oryza Sativa may sound a bit “chemically” to the customer but putting “rice bran oil” in brackets afterwards helps them to understand the ingredient and also “naturalises” it.

Perhaps the issue of discussing “natural” would be vastly facilitated if we used the word “sustainable” instead. Should sustainability should be the goal – we are gobbling up resources as fast as possible. Is it time to figure how we can make functional, effective products that will not destroy our children’s (and grandchildren’s) World along with their health?

“Sustainable” has a more-clear meaning and application, but may not push enough feel good buttons to be commercially successful. Also, if you are pushing your marketing as sustainable whilst all others are trumpeting natural, consumers devalue your product. After all, they argue, if you product was natural like the others, you would say so, wouldn’t you?

So just how fast is this natural gravy train moving? If you weren’t convinced that the natural is the new black, L’Oreal, the World’s largest beauty company has recently acquired Anita Roddicks Body Shop which has about 190 shops in 50 countries, primarily in the UK and had sales of $735 million in the year 2005. The purchase cost L’Oreal $1.1 billion and has given them a powerful position in the fast growing natural products segment, which is interesting because Body Shop was certainly far from natural in its marketing, choosing to extol fair trade issues instead.

Colgate-Palmolive have agreed to purchase Tom’s of Maine for about $10 million. Founded in 1970, Tom’s is the leading player in the US natural personal care market which is currently growing at 15% a year.

Crabtree & Evelyn launched Naturals, a line of 35 body care products. The packaging is very stylish and the products feature unexpected fragrance blends such as mint and black tea, mango and grapefruit. The range is basically based around body butters, polishers and moisturisers so expect to see a flurry of advertising in the coming months.

In Japan, cosmetics giant Shiseido have announced that they have conducted experiments that suggest the natural sweetener Stevia from Amazonian trees can promote the growth of eyelashes. The manufacturer cultured cells found at the root of the eyelash in the presence of Steviosides which are the compounds that give Stevia its sweet taste. The Steviosides caused the MSX2 gene in these cells to be expressed at triple the normal level. Because this gene is known to promote the synthesis of keratin (a key component of the eyelashes) the experiment suggests that Steviosides might also promote the growth of eyelashes.

Most importantly, American giant Wal-Mart is taking a new look at the natural category which they estimate to be worth $37 billion retail. Last year, a new Wal-Mart megastore opened in Texas featuring more than 400 organic foods. Bearing in mind that Texas is said to be the junk food capital of the World, if the test store is successful, you can be sure that Wal-Mart will force suppliers to feed this demand at rock bottom rates and with Wal-Mart placing such big hopes on natural products, the rest of the market is sure to follow.

If you haven’t already thrown in the towel by now (organic fair traded cotton, of course) be reassured that small companies may actually be able to compete successfully in this bigger arena. Organic Monitor notes that the Body Shop’s products contain “synthetic preservatives and chemicals that are not found in most natural and organic personal care products”. They go on to insist that some consumers will switch to smaller brands because of ethical reasons. They will be a niche market but will be demanding and loyal so it will be sensible to have your own ethical concepts well thought out beforehand. There is no straight forward answer to this as there will always be a level of compromise somewhere along the line. The point is, that you should be able to defend your ethical standpoint and be comfortable with it.

However, as a final note just to reassure you though that not all manufacturers will be jumping on the natural bandwagon, the World giant Proctor & Gamble have patented antiperspirant compositions containing petrolatum. The product includes an active, petrolatum, a liquid carrier and a suspending agent.

As ever, we welcome your thoughts on this and will be happy to continue this thread.

Copyright Mike Harmon from Skinbuddy™ 2006

Mike Harmon is a Naturopath trained in Aromatherapy, Reflexology, Iridology, Massage and Colonic Hydrotherapy. He is also trained as a Master Cosmetologist.

A Consultancy Service is available to Spa and Salon owners wishing to have their own range formulated for them.

Regular courses are also available to learn how to make organic and eco friendly products that are of benefit to yourself and your clients.

For further details, please contact Mike Harmon on +44 (0) 20 7884 1175 or go to www.skinbuddy.com
copyright Skinbuddy™/Mike Harmon 2006

We’ve all seen Dr Gillian McKeith on TV telling us that you are what you eat and she gets her patients to kick start their new lives with a colonic but do you actually know anyone who has had Colonic Hydrotherapy?

Confusingly, it has several names and may be variously known as a colonic, colon lavage, colon irrigation or a high colonic. What is important to note though is that this is so much more than an enema. You may have seen those on TV as well with people squatting on the loo over a plastic strainer. Not so with colonics which are estimated to be 40 times more effective than enemas.

Which bit is your colon? It’s the last part of your digestive tract and is about 5 feet long and about 2½ inches in diameter. The last section becomes the rectum and then you have the anus.

So if you are going to the loo every day, do you still need a colonic? Possibly you do, as the colon can hold hardened faecal matter from many years ago long before you started taking care of yourself. This compacted matter narrows the passageway of the bowel in a similar way that limescale narrows central heating pipes. Bearing in mind the colon should have bacteria living there which synthesize valuable nutrients such as vitamins K and some of the vitamin B complex, this simply doesn’t happen when the bowel is clogged up.

Many experts believe that the average person has 5 to 20 pounds of accumulated waste matter in their colon. Whilst it should not be used as a weight loss procedure, it is interesting to note that many people who complete a series of colon hydrotherapy sessions, often report significant weight losses.

Most people have no idea what actually happens when you have a colonic so hear is a potted guide;

After a case history has been taken, you go into your own changing room which has a toilet and shower just for you. Change into a hospital gown and then come on out and lie on the couch on your left hand side. A digital rectal check is needed and takes a few seconds and then the disposable speculum is inserted which is lubricated and about the size of your thumb. You are sure to have passed bigger jobbies than that and it only goes in a couple of inches and stays there.

Then the water is allowed in which has been filtered and warmed. It’s a strange feeling but not unpleasant at all having warm water sloshing around in your guts. The colonic treatment itself exercises and tones the bowel which helps with the evacuation of waste both during and after treatment. The toxic load on the body is reduced.

It’s amazing what a colonic can shift. Obviously poo but especially that poo which has been in the colon for some time, dead cellular tissue, accumulated mucous, parasites, worms, as well bacteria that give of noxious gas. All of this material is quite toxic (poisonous). These poisons can re-enter and circulate in the blood stream making us feel ill, tired or weak.

Secondly, impacted materials impair the colon’s ability to assimilate minerals and bacteria- produced vitamins. Finally, a build-up of material on the colon wall can inhibit muscular action causing sluggish bowel movements, constipation, and the result of these disorders. Common signs include; headaches, backaches, constipation, fatigue, bad breath, body odour, irritability, confusion, skin problems, abdominal gas, bloating, diarrhoea, sciatic pain, and so forth.

As you can see, intestinal toxicity is part and parcel of many peoples everyday experience. Bear in mind that toxicity is not limited to just the colon. Toxic material is found throughout the body, particularly in fat tissue, joints, arteries, muscles, liver, etc. Colonics effectively eliminate large quantities of toxic waste, affecting the condition of the entire body.

After the colonic has finished, go back to the changing room and sit on the loo for a fewmoments and then shower if you want to and get changed.

A short chat afterwards gives you specific follow up advice and you may be given some probiotics to help the bowel establish a beneficial blend of bacteria more quickly and then you can carry on with daily routine. For some, the colonic may trigger several subsequent bowel movements for the next few hours, but there won’t be any uncontrollable urgency or discomfort. It’s also possible you may feel light-headed or chilled for a while following a colonic.

5 things you didn’t know about colonics

• the earliest records of colonics go back to 1500BC in an Egyptian medical papyrus
• early colonics used a hollow reed strategically placed whilst standing in a river
• there are more bacteria present in the colon than there are cells that make up our own body
• when he was embalmed, Henry VIII’s bowel weighed over 15 stone
• after a colonic the liver starts to detox as well

In the UK;

• an estimated 20,000 new cases of colon and rectal cancer will be diagnosed each year

• many million’s of pounds will be spent on laxatives annually

• based on the statistics, colon health care in the UK has been woefully neglected

• colon cancer is believed to be the second leading cancer killer second only to lung cancer in men and breast cancer in women 20% of the UK population suffer from IBS symptoms at some time during their lives, and 5% are chronic sufferers

4 good reasons to have a colonic

• toxic material is broken down so it can no longer harm your body or inhibit assimilation and elimination. Even debris built up over a long period is gently, but surely removed in the process of a series of treatments. Once impacted material is removed, your colon can begin again to co-operate as it was intended to. In this very real sense a colonic is a rejuvenation treatment.

• it exercises the Colon Muscles: The build up of toxic debris weakens the colon and impairs its functioning. The gentle filling and emptying of the colon improves peristaltic (muscular contraction) activity by which the colon naturally moves material.

• it Reshapes the Colon: When problem conditions exist in the colon, they tend to alter its shape which in turn causes more problems. The gentle action of the water, coupled with the massage techniques of the colon therapist helps to eliminate bulging pockets of waste and narrowed, spastic constrictions finally enabling the colon to resume its natural state.

• it Stimulates Reflex Points: Every system and organ of the body is connected to the colon by reflex points. A colonic stimulates these points, thereby affecting the corresponding body parts in a beneficial way.

Copyright Mike Harmon from Skinbuddy™ 2007

copyright Skinbuddy™/Mike Harmon 2006